L’Autre Pied, London

 

Ten years ago, 5 Blandford Street was Stephen Bull Restaurant, apparently where today’s ‘Modern British’ cooking was first invented. Five years ago, Stevie B had gone and, brilliantly baptised, Blandford Street, specialising in ‘Modern British’ and ‘European’ eating, stood there in its stead. One year ago (one year minus two days if for you are a pendant – the pot calling the kettle black, perhaps? jamais) it was l’Autre Pied and, now fully-evolved, ‘Modern European’ cuisine’s turn mettre sur pied at this auspicious address.

Young Englishman, Marcus Eaves, is the Head Chef and triumvir-titleholder – together with double Michelin dream team, Shane Osborn and David Moore – of this tributary (in every sense) to Pied à Terre. Until moving to l’Autre, Marcus had spent two years as Osborn’s sous chef at big brother, grand Pied and before that, had been sous chef at Claude Bosi’s then-Ludlow-based Hibiscus (2*). Born in Leamington Spa, but raised in neighbouring Warwick, he started his career at nearby Simpsons (1*), Kenilworth (now Birmingham); then moving to Lettonie (2*), Bath; prior to a year with John Burton Race at the Landmark Hotel (2*). Accolades that include Midlands Young Chef of the Year and Gordon Ramsay Scholar (both 2004), underlined by this exceptional education, elucidate epithets like ‘the Lewis Hamilton’ of England’s chefs. The Pied à Terre team clearly believe the hype, this is their first foray from home in sixteen years, so they must have great confidence and great expectations for their 27-year-old protégé.

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